My MPCNC showed some significant flex on the four main feet. I wanted to solve this quickly with small amounts of material and without additional hardware, except screws.
It might look kind of funny and when you already modified your corners in some other way or got them low, the aren´t necessary I guess. If you still got most of the original parts, this little gem will help 🙂
Bring the two feet in place, screw them down and the clamp will bring up the tension on the struts.
Surprise! I had a common chip clearance problem. I considered this as a cause from the beginning and also got some tips from the vicious1..com forum. I milled two complete sets of 3D-printer frames without problems so I couldn´t believe that this was really the cause.
I drew a test pattern and managed to get it right with an additional ,5mm helical drilling movement. That seems enough for the chips to clear the hole.
I don´t have that much time to get into those issues but the parts didn´t came out perfectly rectangular yet. I tried to manually adjust the stepper position before powering it up but thats still not enough to get the precision I need. I´m using all of the available travel so I´m getting quite a big error in the end.
I need to readjust the frame and the feet as well.
I currently got some problems with drilling holes again. It seems there is something odd in the Z- axis. I didn´t assembled it carefully enough. I suppose that the spindle isn´t lowered in a straight line, instead it is tilted on the way down pushing the endmill into the material sideways and ripping a hole into my plywood.
I´m using this as a reason to reprint the tool- and steppermount.
When I originally build the MPCNC I had no drillpress and the terrible idea to tap a M4 thread into the stainless. This is a bad idea as it clearly makes the alignment of the screws in the tool mount to the conduit almost impossible.
I redrilled the holes and I am now using the original path with the nut traps inside the conduit. Along with the adjustment of the leadscrew this hopefully improves the precision and rigidity of my z-axis.
Finished toolmount replacement. The one on the left was printed with an pre R17 BCN3D Sigma and the right one printed with my DIY printer.
Now everything is assembled again. The tubes are now „perfectly“ straight and parallel. I used a glass plate to verify the alignment.
I did a short test run and I had the same result as before. A nice circular vibration and a not very pretty drill hole. I´m using a diamond cut endmill at the moment and went successfully through two sets of printer frames. I´ve been told in ryans formum (viscious1.com) that diamond cut bits are everything but ideal to dive 12mm into beech plywood. They are very robust so they were the only ones that survived when it came to an error. They are compressing the shavings within the hole and that leads to more and more pressure hence the heat rises and the endmill escapes in the circular movement.
In the past I ordered a endmill from sorotec which broke after some drilling operations. That left me confused what the error might be. I also tried a shorter endmill originally for aluminum which transported the shavings quiete nicely but was too short.
I ordered new endmills again and hopefully all the possible errors caused by the machine are gone and I get my drill patterns and contours out of one endmill.
I founded a little company called raise-UAV. The main advantage is the increased time for my projects and that was totally necessary when I look at my roadmap. 🙂
It is primarily focused on the development of open drone systems manufactured with 3D printing technology.
The printer and the mini ghost I´ve started here will be hosted on the company side to keep things easier. Other things not drone and printer related will be posted here on the kleingeist blog in detail. Next bigger projects are a printed and easy to build kajak and an „earth rover“ for research purposes.
There will also be a shop on raise-uav.com where you can buy kits and ready made articles to keep me funded for further development.
I also began a video series picturing the builds and other useful content with its first episode right here
I had the opportunity to try out at least 5 different printers. All of them had sifgnificant backdraws like missing heatbed, price and noise. They all did there job anyway and my Fabrikator is working pretty much „fire and forget“ all the time. Nevertheless I´m tempted to create my own printer just for the sake of adding it to my collection of valuable experiences.
I came up with T-Bot first iteration closely related to prusa´s I3 framewise. I didn´t liked the Z leadscrews standing out that much and too far away from the linear slides so the second version focused on making this a little more aerodynamic.
I am aiming for a precise as possible head and bed positioning mechanics with dual extrusion the bowden way. I have good experience with bowden so I don´t see any significant disadvantages at the moment.
The second version with the new z and x mechanics.
There are E3D V6 mounted on the gantry at the moment but it should be stable enough for light milling operations.
The frame is designed with 16mm MDF in mind but I probably change to a different material (not OSB). Thats why I have to redesign most of the frame parts as the new material is somewhat thinner.
I already have most of the electronic components in mind. The first prototype might be powered by components I have laying around but the finished version is meant to be state of the art 🙂
Watching Thomas Sanladerer´s channel really helped me out making decisions at some points in the design process so thank you for your effort in making great videos, if you ever read this.
I took another iteration to make it move like it should. As you can see, in comparison to the previous entry, the case and the mechanics have been modified. The belt system used is a bit more complicated than I initially thought and I couldn´t get it to perform „super smooth“ like its contestants.It is best suited for actioncams as you can see in the picture below. I tried a DSLM and it works somehow but it flexes under the load generating a somewhat unstraight path.
I think it´s okay anyway, taking the money spend into account versus performance. At least it was a good exercise. In the video below are some cam transitions made with it so get the idea of the achievable smoothnes. It´s more like basecap than edelkrone 😛
This project is currently in long term testing and refinement stage.
Inspired and a bit fascinated by the glide arm style camera sliders I decided to build my own version of it.
The parts are all standard you got laying around either from a MPCNC build or if you like modifying or building 3D printers. Anythin else can be sourced from your local hardware store or other sources.
It is not working yet as I´m wating on some hardware parts that are announced for arrival next week. After that it will be tested in various conditions and then maybe released into the wild 🙂
First render of the new tool holder with dust shoe, connected at the bottom. The goal was to stiffen the spindle for aluminum milling and the transition to a more comfortable suction system as I don´t like standing next to it for an hour.
The clamp itself has already been printed and the vaccuum attachment is on its way. I will see how this turns out and if I need some kind of brush to bridge the gap to the workpiece or if the pure airflow is strong enough to keep the chips and dust under control. The spindle is closer to the gantry and sits firmly clamped by two M4 screws with washers and nylocks.
Sorry for the bad print quality, it is printed in PETG and I didn´t dialed in the parameters carefully as this is a plain mechanical part with no optical ambitions 😛
Those are my preparations for the nex aluminum milling test runs and the upcoming bigger project that might cause lots of dust.
I started building a MPCNC router after I stumbled upon vicious1s design on thingiverse. I really liked the design and couldn´t resist to start ordering the electrical parts and the required conduit.
MPCNC Rollers and first stepper mount
I took pretty long to get all the parts printed correctly, as my printer was modded right before the prints and it wasn´t to clear how it will perform. The MPCNC prints served well as a long time test of the modifications
I quickly assembled the parts I had so far to see what it gonna look like
First test fitting
All fitted very well, the conduit is stainless steel whitch came pre cutted. I needed to source some screws I had to use M4 for the most parts as M3,5 as suggest by Ryan was harder to find. After I got them it didn´t took long to get the majority of the CNC parts together.
Assembled stage 1,5
Great moment for me, as I coulnd´t stop thinking about anything else than finishing this nice little machine up. I made it 70 x 70 cm resulting in a build volume of around 40 x 40cm x 10 cm.
Next steps cover the electronics, base plate and the spindle. I will go for a Kress FME 800.