I had the demand for some more serious aluminum milling. I did that with the MPCNC before and it was kind of okay but I wouldn´t like to mill higher part counts with it. The spindle gets hot after some time and leads to more flex in the toolhead. It´s not made for aluminum so I looked around for a more suitable platform.
I found the openbuilds C-beam machine to be nicely designed and versatile enough to be worth adding to my machinepark. I looked around for a europe based shop and found openbuilds poland , v slot europe and ooznest .
I decided to go with the ooznest version as they had the best full kit. I didn´t wanted to source all the parts from here and there. Sometimes it´s nice to have a complete package 🙂
The sipment was fast after the payment went trough and so I had a first look at the package today. All was nicely packed and labeled according to the build section like X, Y and Z Axis. The printed parts for the power supply and the controller board looked pretty nice and felt solid.
Can´t say much yet but a real manual would be more comfortable than a build video. It´s way faster to look at a drawing than to forward, play, stop, rewind, play, the buildvideo 😀
Surprise! I had a common chip clearance problem. I considered this as a cause from the beginning and also got some tips from the vicious1..com forum. I milled two complete sets of 3D-printer frames without problems so I couldn´t believe that this was really the cause.
I drew a test pattern and managed to get it right with an additional ,5mm helical drilling movement. That seems enough for the chips to clear the hole.
I don´t have that much time to get into those issues but the parts didn´t came out perfectly rectangular yet. I tried to manually adjust the stepper position before powering it up but thats still not enough to get the precision I need. I´m using all of the available travel so I´m getting quite a big error in the end.
I need to readjust the frame and the feet as well.
I currently got some problems with drilling holes again. It seems there is something odd in the Z- axis. I didn´t assembled it carefully enough. I suppose that the spindle isn´t lowered in a straight line, instead it is tilted on the way down pushing the endmill into the material sideways and ripping a hole into my plywood.
I´m using this as a reason to reprint the tool- and steppermount.
When I originally build the MPCNC I had no drillpress and the terrible idea to tap a M4 thread into the stainless. This is a bad idea as it clearly makes the alignment of the screws in the tool mount to the conduit almost impossible.
I redrilled the holes and I am now using the original path with the nut traps inside the conduit. Along with the adjustment of the leadscrew this hopefully improves the precision and rigidity of my z-axis.
Finished toolmount replacement. The one on the left was printed with an pre R17 BCN3D Sigma and the right one printed with my DIY printer.
Now everything is assembled again. The tubes are now „perfectly“ straight and parallel. I used a glass plate to verify the alignment.
I did a short test run and I had the same result as before. A nice circular vibration and a not very pretty drill hole. I´m using a diamond cut endmill at the moment and went successfully through two sets of printer frames. I´ve been told in ryans formum (viscious1.com) that diamond cut bits are everything but ideal to dive 12mm into beech plywood. They are very robust so they were the only ones that survived when it came to an error. They are compressing the shavings within the hole and that leads to more and more pressure hence the heat rises and the endmill escapes in the circular movement.
In the past I ordered a endmill from sorotec which broke after some drilling operations. That left me confused what the error might be. I also tried a shorter endmill originally for aluminum which transported the shavings quiete nicely but was too short.
I ordered new endmills again and hopefully all the possible errors caused by the machine are gone and I get my drill patterns and contours out of one endmill.
I founded a little company called raise-UAV. The main advantage is the increased time for my projects and that was totally necessary when I look at my roadmap. 🙂
It is primarily focused on the development of open drone systems manufactured with 3D printing technology.
The printer and the mini ghost I´ve started here will be hosted on the company side to keep things easier. Other things not drone and printer related will be posted here on the kleingeist blog in detail. Next bigger projects are a printed and easy to build kajak and an „earth rover“ for research purposes.
There will also be a shop on raise-uav.com where you can buy kits and ready made articles to keep me funded for further development.
I also began a video series picturing the builds and other useful content with its first episode right here
Inspired by one of my readers I had a look at the dust shoe for the Kress again. I redesigned it completely and got rid of the additional tubes and clamps. I thought that it would be a good idea to have a highly flexible part between vaccum and CNC. If I had ordered the 20mm silicon tubes it may have worked as well but reducing parts is allways priority.
So in the end we got a pretty classic dust shoe here. It doesn´t have a brush at the bottom as it seems to work pretty good at the moment and I really like to see the endmill. However I included three holes at the bottom for a later brush design.
It works pretty good with lighter materials but GFK, aluminum or similar are not fully sucked up.
It has been printed in 0,3mm draft quality for testing purposes.
Inspired and a bit fascinated by the glide arm style camera sliders I decided to build my own version of it.
The parts are all standard you got laying around either from a MPCNC build or if you like modifying or building 3D printers. Anythin else can be sourced from your local hardware store or other sources.
It is not working yet as I´m wating on some hardware parts that are announced for arrival next week. After that it will be tested in various conditions and then maybe released into the wild 🙂
Some time ago I discovered „The Mitt“ by Ivan Franko. I liked the idea of a flexible software synthesizer combined with a precise hardware controlled parameter modulation.
The idea is to create different concepts of modulation or forms of synthesis in general. The prynth framework itself is based on the legendary „supercollider“ and is served via a webapp running on a rapsberry pi. That way it is very easy to modify with a few clicks.
I had quiete some different synths and other hardware instruments and always came to a point where I really wanted to modify a tiny bit. I know, being limited at some point can help to develop new styles and they teach you how to efficiently use your ressources but this time we have full control over the bits and sounds. FINALLY
I took part in a competition by Ivan in which he gave away a set of prynth pcbs that are used to feed the hardware signals into the raspi. Looks like I´ve won, together with 2 other participiants and for the first time I received a letter from canada!
The main pcb has a teensy on it reading the voltage on the voltage dividers made up by the potentiometers. Up to ten variable resistors are supported by the muxi control mainboard. For bigger projects featuring more control inputs the smaller mux pcbs add a maximum of 80 (!) inputs.
Currently the „hack and make Jena“ group is working on creating a mostly practical synth with some additional features to modulate it fluent and intuitive.
A definetely important tool that I´ve delayed way too long. Micha remembered me of the importance of these devices and as he needed one as well I had even more motivation to finally build one.
It is a simple design with a 24V 180 m³/h fan sucking the air through a 130 x 130 x 10 mm activated charcoal mat. The protoytpe on the pictures was designed with two fans in mind but the single arrangement was sufficient enough. The single fan design also reduced the printing time of course, so I went with that as standard.
I added some legs that increased the range of the system so you don´t have to be too close to the „defumer“. The working range is usually around 40 cm. The closer the better.
I did finish the first „century“ lamp just in time for christmas. The base is very close to the CAD design, thanks to the excellent work of a friend and his lathe. The apple wood turned quite dark, alltough I used a clear finish. The lampshade printed from natural PLA gave it an almost glass like appearance. I´m currently refitting the MPCNC with an extruder so I may be able to print the more complex lampshades soon as my Hobbyking Fabrikator is just a bit too small for the task. I´m pretty happy with the result so far. Now I have to dive deeper into aluminum milling to get it a little more stiff.
It has been a while since the last post and the reason for that is the design and manufacturing of a desk lamp. The initial design differs from the final product as the whole process has been simplified a little. I gathered materials for three of them so the first one will serve as a production test to find out if everything fits. Once finished I am going to include the finer details.
The pedestal is a 3D cnc piece made from walnut here. It has been changed to a more simple round apple wood base with a 10mm phase cut with a bandsaw. Since the apple wood has a real nice grain I like it even more by now. I made three of them and one is probably going to be machined on a lathe by a friend to get closer to the intended design.
The switch case mounted in front is going to be replaced by an inline switch, this also eases up the amount of needed prints. The joint for the arms above has been redesigned and is now clamping instead of a bolt through design with three possible positions. I have not tested yet if the clamp produces enough force to hold the arms and the lampshade with all the components. I hope this works out well.
The arms should be made out of aluminium and I found some nice bars I can make them of. The first step will be to mill them out of some old wood planks I got. That is a good test to see if the dimensions of the parts work together well from a design perspective. The final arms are then milled as intended when the design is validated.
The lampshade is 3D printed and adapted to a regular E14 lamp socket. The threads came out usable on first try and I will keep those first parts.
The project was started in july and was delayed because I had to build the MPCNC first but I´m almost finished by now. Pedestal and arms need to be cnced and some of the knobs are left to be printed.